Mother of Gao's inventive playfulness is just what SA's sustainable fashion needs

The brand is named after designer and founder Katlego Mokwana's role of being a mother to her daughter Gaopaleloe, which is Gao for short. You can feel her influence on the brand — from Mokwana's commitment to the environment to the wonderfully playful adornments on each piece.

H&M recently hosted a press day for the designer Mokwana to showcase her pieces at its showroom at the V&A Waterfront in Cape Town.

Mokwana was named the winner of the Emerging Designer category at the Twyg Sustainable Fashion Awards 2024.

H&M recently hosted a press day for designer Katlego Mokwana to showcase her Mother of Gao pieces. Image supplied.

Pieces from Mother of Gao's inventive, playful and enchanting permanent collection. Image supplied.

As the category sponsor, H&M South Africa awarded Katlego a R100,000 cash prize to support the growth of her business and is providing access to mentorship and networking opportunities.

For a brief moment when she was free, she spoke to us about tackling micro trends with innovative designs, why we should embrace sustainable fashion and her plans for the brand.

You’ve hailed your grandparents and their inventive ways of reusing things as your biggest inspiration. What else do you draw inspiration from?

I draw inspiration from time spent with my daughter; her playful nature has inspired me to elevate my minimal design aesthetic by incorporating it with playful shapes and design features like ruffles and flower appliques.

"At Mother of Gao, our use of reversible design is a direct response to the culture of overconsumption." Image supplied.

You’re into reversible fashion, which is tres chic and tres environmentally friendly. How can such innovative designs tackle the growth of micro trends?

Reversible fashion can help tackle micro trends by allowing consumers to get more out of a single garment, ultimately extending its lifespan in their wardrobe.

At Mother of Gao, our use of reversible design is a direct response to the culture of overconsumption. By offering versatility in every piece, we hope to inspire a shift away from fast-paced, short-lived trends toward more thoughtful and sustainable choices

#AfricaTextileTalks: Developing EPR for fashion and textiles

Maroefah Smith  4 Aug 2025

You use natural dyeing and eco-printing in your designs. How else can we get everyday South Africans to embrace sustainable fashion?

People connect when things feel real. By making sustainable fashion accessible and rooted in local stories, it becomes easier to embrace.

At Mother of Gao, we use natural dyeing, eco-printing, and organic textiles to create that connection. Educating everyday South Africans about these practices helps them support local, sustainable brands.

You’ve also found inventive ways of reusing off-cuts by incorporating them into other pieces. Why should more brands do this?

Brands really need to find ways to cut down on fabric waste because it’s a big part of the pollution problem in fashion. Off-cuts often get thrown away and end up in landfills, where they don’t break down, especially if the fabrics aren’t organic. Choosing organic textiles and being mindful about waste can make a huge difference.

#BehindtheCampaign: The Street Store’s Sustainable Disclaimer to fast fashion

9 Jul 2025

How have you managed to scale up while maintaining your slow fashion ethos?

I haven’t really scaled up; the brand still produces on a made-to-order production system. Slow fashion is a vital factor for us.

What’s next for Mother of Gao?

Definitely a menswear range and a scatter cushion collection. However, I am hoping to secure a brand collaboration, preferably with H&M, but I am open to exploring my options.

And finally, what’s your favourite piece of your Staples collection?

My favourite piece would have to be the Gao Jacket. I always feel so unique when I’m wearing it. I have, however, gravitated to the reversible press shirt that I wore at the press day.

The Staples permanent collection, including the Gao Jacket and reversible press shirt, is available on the Mother of Gao website.